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Nitroplanes CMP PT-19 Review


Construction:
I originally received this plane as an auction item for a flying event for my club.  I opened and inspected the plane to be just totally impressed with the wood work and graphics.  I promptly put in my order that night to receive my own kit by the end of the week. The winner of the auction was a friend of mine in the club and we hope to get some video one day of us formation flying.  The construction is balsa and light plywood.  It is built light but strong.  The graphics are very colorful and detailed down to the panel lines, rivets and gas cap.  It does NOT come with Pilots but I had some Hanger9 pilots I used for mine.  The website says 40-50 but .40 nitro 2 stroke is more than powerful  enough and a .52 4-stroke would be more than plenty.  46 electric at 700W is way more than you will need and you could get away with 32 electric no problem if you want true scale speeds.

Build:
This built like any other arf. Epoxy the wing together with the dihedral brace and glue in the horizontal stab and vertical fin.  Just like any other arf, you need to plan ahead and dry fit everything.  Thin CA for the hinges.  As usually, take the time to plan out the tail wheel bend and where it will go in the rudder in relationship to the control horn and hinge. Sometimes CMP gives you measurements for the bending of the tail wheel wire and those measurements lead it to run into the hinge or horn so plan it out.  Since I was flying off of grass that sometimes gets long and the ground clumpy, I raked the landing gear forwards. To do so, I put the landing gear in a vice and bent it.  I then cut the silver strut covers shorter to accomodate the angle.  I attached the wheel covers with 3M 4011 tape cut to shape and a single tapped screw.  The kit gives you a nut to use to hold down the canopy.  Instead, I purchased some rare earth magnets from Harbor Freight. I epoxied them double stacked in 4 groups.  so 2 are stacked together on the cockpit, and 2 are stacked together under the plywood in the fuse.  If you were to drill holes to match the magnets, you could mount them flush and not double stack them. Use wax paper to keep the glue from sticking to the surface and then epoxy them in place.  (use some imagination here).  This makes the loading and unloading the battery go quickly.  I used originally all EXI standard size servos, but later put in some Solar Servo D770 into the aileron. Those servos have GREAT centering.  You should drill out new holes in the control horn to match the clevises you use. Sometimes I like to toss the ARF's clevises away and use Dubro instead.  Your hole in the control horn should allow the clevis to move freely but not be oversized to the point it has slop. Any slop will cause instabilty in the plane and it will not hold trim.  Slop in the control surface of ANY aircraft is the enemy here.  I loaded a Monster Power 46 from Hobbypartz, Volcano 80A ESC and a 5S Gens ace 3300mAh 25C battery. (Note, I later damaged my Monster Power 46 by dropping the plane on the motor bending the prop shaft, I had a spare prop shaft but decided to test out the bigfoot 46 instead.  To my pleasure, the Bigfoot was more efficient and smoother so it now has the bigfoot.  I had to put 3 quarter ounce lead squares in the tail to balance it out to the proper CG as noted in the manual.

Flying:
It took off and flew like a dream. Really stable.  It flies just like it is, a tail dragger low wing trainer.  Scale flying is nice but loops and rolls and other simple aerobatics is no problem with the 46 electric.  I originally had an APCe prop but later put in a wood Zinger prop (less efficient but loooked more scale). No unusual tendancies and it still floats in for a nice landing. It is a nice relaxing plane to fly and looks great in the air with the sun lighting it up.

RCGROUPS thread on the CMP PT-19